Untitled Document
Products with AHAs are marketed
as a "Natural" way to rejuvenate skin.
Anti-wrinkle creams age skin more rapidly. DERMATOLOGY
TIMES Issue: Sept, 2000
London -- Scientists are now reporting that
anti-wrinkle creams containing alphahydroxy acids may actually cause the skin
to age more rapidly, according to an article on ABCNews.com.
The European Commission, the administrative
arm of the European Union, is considering placing tough, new limits on anti-wrinkle
creams because the AHAs present in the products may actually cause the skin
to age more rapidly than without, scientists said.
AHAs claim to exfoliate or rejuvenate the skin
by peeling off the outer layers to reveal the fresher skin beneath. They also
claim to smooth fine lines and surface wrinkles, to improve skin texture and
ton, and to improve skin condition in general.
However, both European and U.S. scientists are
finding the chemicals may actually be causing long-term damage instead.
Recently, the European Commission's Scientific
committee on Cosmetic Products made available a number of studies, including
research from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, about this issue.
The commission found that the chemicals appear
to increase the number of skin cells that are damaged, stimulate reddening,
blistering and burning and put users at greater risk of ultraviolet damage from
the sun.
"Improper use, too frequent use, and use
by those with sensitive skin -- this is where you see the damage," Nick
Lowe, M.D., a dermatologist, told ABCNews. "Products using AHAs should
be administered in a clinic."
Products with AHAs are marketed as a "natural"
way to rejuvenate skin. Alphahydroxy acid ingredients may be listed as:
* glycolic acid
* malic acid
* citric acid
* glycolic acid + ammonium glycolate
* alpha-hydroxyoctanoic acid
* alpha-hydroxycaprylic acid
* hydroxycaprylic acid
* mixed fruit acid
* tri-alpha hydroxy fruit acids
* triple fruit acid
* sugar cane extract
* alphahydroxy and botanical complex
* L-alpha hydroxy acid
* glycomer in crosslinked fatty acids alpha
nutrium (three AHAs)